The Trip

We spent 3 days in Dunedin which was originally founded as the new Edinburgh and the architecture is pretty reminiscent (as is the weather unfortunately). On the first evening Hilary experienced a disturbing premonition in Starbucks.

Apart from chilling out around town, seeking second-hand book shops and Ghost-spotting back at the hostel (Chalet backpackers used to be a hospital) the main point of being in Dunedin was to go see the only mainland Royal Albatross colony in the world. This is a short drive out on the peninsula along a winding, waterfront road. In Ireland (and probably most of Europe) this road would have large sturdy metal barriers to prevent idiots driving their cars into the water. In New Zealand there is nothing, not even a verge or hedge in most places. Unfortunately, the Albatross observatory was closed whilst the returning pairs got reacquainted after 12months of circling the Antarctic alone. But, we were able to take a walk up the cliff and luckily the wind had got up enough that two pairs were gliding around the cliffs. Unless there's enough wind they can't fly as they are primarily gliding not flapping birds. Oh, and they're huge, with a wingspan of 3m and a body like a really fat chicken.

There's also the only working example of Armstrong Disappearing Gun at Fort Taiaroa (just under the albatross colony) which was pretty amazing to see. Built over 100 years ago to defend against the Russians! Just down from the headland we saw seals lounging in the rain and swimming around the cliffs.

We left Dunedin for the long trek to Te Anau, essentially the gateway to the Milford Sound. After all the driving we walked around Te Anau lake to the start of Kepler Track which is 67km and no, we didn't do it!!! Although about now there is the Kepler Challenge in which contestants run the track in little over 5hrs!

We drove to Milford Sound the next day - which takes a good 2hrs despite being only 119km but then you have to take into account the windy, mountainous roads, tourist traffic, photo opportunities and of course, the Homer Tunnel. In the 1930's this tunnel was blasted through the mountain to provide a route to Milford Sound (although no one has actually explained why). Today the tunnel remains unchanged: 1.2km of steep, pitch black, two lane, bare rock tunnel which is incredibly disorientating after the blinding sunshine and snow outside.

We've been getting a little cheap recently and so settled for another picnic and walk rather than the scenic cruises which seemed to be ferrying a non-stop supply of Japanese tourists around the Sound. Personally I preferred the ham sandwiches and exercise.

From Christchurch we headed to Lake Tekapo for two nights. This is very close to Mount Cook and we originally decided to stay here because there was no accomodation available in Mount Cook. However, I think we were probably much happier in the end in Lake Tekapo. The lake is a fantastic, perfectly clear blue water, and when you look across it you see snow covered mountains - on a clear day it is really impressive.

The Church of the Good Shepherd is a small chapel on the edge of the lake. It is used by a number of religions - the Catholics get it one Saturday a month. Behind the alter is a picture window, unlike the stained glass you might expect in a church. Of course they don't need the stained glass window, as the view from behind the alter is directly across the lake and I imagine, that everyone who attends mass here is glad to have done so. There is a statue of a collie dog outside the church, hence the name.

Went to Mount Cook for a day. It was a good drive and we stopped many times to take in the views and obviously Jamie took many, many pictures. It wasn't as cold there as I imagined, especially as on the drive up we passed lots of snow. We have a bit of a walk around. We would probably have liked to have done more walks, but while in Christchurch I had hurt one of my back muscles (while getting dressed would you believe, I mean I've been doing it for years - getting dressed that is). Anyway, it was still sore, especially after sitting in the car for so long.

We had a nice picnic sitting looking up at the mountain! Mount Cook is big and snowy....

We arrived safe and sound in New Zealand but we seem to be making a habit of going to places at the busiest time. It is now heading into high season for New Zealand but Christchurch was in the middle of show week (?don't know what this really is) and accomodation was very hard to come by. We had one night booked and as soon as we arrived had to go searching for places to stay for the rest of the time.

We spent 4 days in Christchurch in all. Its a really nice city, more like a large English town.
They have a very nice arts centre where are and crafts people gather to display and sell their wares, it's in the old University buildings. Even to go just to look at the buildings is worth it - if you're into that kind of thing.

We also visited the Antarctic Centre, which is out by the airport. I have been interested in the Antarctic ever since reading MIchael Smith's book about Tom Crean (very good book). Two things that I loved about the centre (cos I'm a big child) were the storm simulator and Hagglund ride. The storm simulator, yes you guessed it simulates the wind chill of an Antarctic storm. You get rubber foot covers and a coat but if you arrive in shorts, as I did, suffer it.... With the Hagglund ride you get a ride on very rough terrain i n one of those tank like vehicles they use to get around the ice. IT's really fun and you get to sit in a big lake of water and experience this 5 tonne machine floating - cool! Definitely recommended if you're in the area.

The day before we left Christchurch we took a bus out to Akaroa, in the Banks Peninsula to go swimming with the dolphins (Hector's Dolphin , the smallest and rarest in the world, often referred to as the New Zealand Dolphin as they are only foun din New Zealand). The wetsuits we had to wear were much thicker that the ones we wore in the great barrier reef (cos its colder, much colder!). You end up walking around like a penguin no matter how good the fit.
Unfortunately, I didn't swim with the dolphins. There was 1.5 metre swell that day and when I got into the water I just wasn't strong enough to move around. But that was ok, Jamie saved me. I got to take the pictures of the dolphins and Jamie got to freeze his ass off :-)

After arriving back in Christchurch we were walking along and who did we meet but Carmel O'Brien - lots of you don't know who she is but she's a friend from when we worked in Broadcom and we didn't know she was in New Zealand. It was a pleasant surprise. Now Carmel is back home :-(

We bought the Lord of the Rings Location Guidebook by Ian Brodie with the intention of visiting some places used in the movie... very exciting really!

Pictures will be posted when we bloody well feel like it.....